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Worthy Gear–What I’m Taking to New Hampshire (Part 1)

 

The C.A.M.P. "X-Mountain" tool on the right, super slick, lightweight, precise, and gorgeous. I'm loving them so far. Interchangeable grips (between ice/mixed, ice, and alpine), customizable head, slightly more aggressive geometry than my BD Vipers (left). They're also three ounces lighter per tool (measured hammer vs. hammer). They're more "tap-tap" than "swing-and-bash".
The C.A.M.P. “X All-Mountain” tool on the right, super slick, lightweight, precise, and gorgeous. I’m loving them so far. Interchangeable grips (between ice/mixed, ice, and alpine), customizable head, slightly more aggressive geometry than my BD Vipers (left). They’re also three ounces lighter per tool (measured hammer vs. hammer). They’re more “tap-tap” than “swing-and-bash”.

 

Here you can see the slight difference in shaft/head angles between the two tools. A slightly more aggressive head angle improves mixed performance, they say. Me? I don't think I climb well enough to discuss angles, but the C.A.M.P. tools swing nicely and seem a little more of a finesse tool than the Viper.
Here you can see the slight difference in shaft/head angles between the two tools. A slightly more aggressive head angle improves mixed performance, they say. Me? I don’t think I climb well enough to discuss angles, but the C.A.M.P. tools swing nicely and seem a little more of a finesse tool than the Viper.
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At 42 grams, the DMM “Phantom” lets you carry more than two ‘biners for the weight of one large version. Now, I love my Petzl tri-lockers, but when climbing ice we’re usually using skinnier ropes, so it’s nice having a compact, secure locker. The mechanism is as smooth and reliable as the big versions, but in a tiny package. They’re fumbly with gloves, for sure, but I use them 99 percent of the time at belays, so no worries.
The Lowa "Vertical GTX", a Primaloft-insulated all-around alpine boot, with integrated gaiter, Gore-tex liner, and a blend of synthetic and leather upper materials. They're eight ounces lighter (904g/boot; 1 lb. 15oz) per boot than my old LaSportiva Nepal Extremes (LOVE my old warhorses, they're indestructible and newer technologies have made them kinda clunky, relatively; the newer Nepal is about the same weight as this Lowa boot, in fairness to the craftsmen at LaSportiva), and climb a bit better. Notice how the green leather at the ankle swoops down towards the heel? The boot has decidedly less material here, which means less support in one sense, but way better ankle articulation in another. Better walking, better French technique, but if your ankles are shaky, you might find them less supportive than a more traditionally cut boot. Loving them so far!
The Lowa “Vertical GTX“, a Primaloft-insulated all-around alpine boot, with integrated gaiter, Gore-tex liner, and a blend of synthetic and leather upper materials. They’re eight ounces lighter (904g/boot; 1 lb. 15oz) per boot than my old LaSportiva Nepal Extremes (LOVE my old warhorses, they’re indestructible and newer technologies have made them kinda clunky, relatively; the newer Nepal is about the same weight as this Lowa boot, in fairness to the craftsmen at LaSportiva), and climb a bit better. Notice how the green leather at the ankle swoops down towards the heel? The boot has decidedly less material here, which means less support in one sense, but way better ankle articulation in another. Better walking, better French technique, but if your ankles are shaky, you might find them less supportive than a more traditionally cut boot. Loving them so far!

 

The old-school Kong "GiGi," one of the original plaquette devices. It autolocks when belaying one or two seconds, rappels very smoothly, and weighs only 62 grams/2.1 ounces.
The old-school Kong “GiGi,” one of the original plaquette devices. It autolocks when belaying one or two seconds, rappels very smoothly, and weighs only 62 grams/2.1 ounces. With frozen ropes or fuzzy, older ones, the GiGi belays far, far better than an ATC Guide, Reverso, or Mammut Smart Alpine. I discovered this the hard way when I left the GiGi at home one day…I spent an entire route battling with my belay device! Never again–I love the GiGi–$14, light, reliable.

 

The C.A.M.P. "Radion" ice screw. OK, full disclaimer--the mini 'draw on this thing makes racking clumsy, so I don't carry a full set of 'em. BUT--these things place faster than any screw on the market--period. Period. I have a short, medium, and long one, pre-slung on a Screamer. That way I always have something I can slam in at top speed. They're faster than a BD Turbo Express, but don't rack nearly as cleanly. Check out the following photo to see, in part, why they place so well.
The C.A.M.P. “Radion” ice screw (185 g), with the BD Express (151 g) below. OK, full disclaimer–the mini ‘draw on this thing makes racking clumsy, so I don’t carry a full set of ’em. BUT–these things place faster than any screw on the market–period. Period. I have a short, medium, and long one, pre-slung on Screamers. That way I always have something I can slam in at top speed. They’re faster than a BD Express, but don’t rack nearly as cleanly. Check out the following photo to see, in part, why they place so well.
Enlarge the pic and check out the rifling on the inside of the tube--these things place better than any screw I've ever tried.
Enlarge the pic and check out the rifling on the inside of the tube–these things place better than any screw I’ve ever tried.

More soon–I’ve been home all week solo with sick boys and a sniffle myself. I hit the ATC three times in the hopes of building a little strength before I head to New Hampshire for my AMGA ice-instructor course.

 

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