It’s time to plan a winter snow road trip that will bring you to the only thing that matters—the places with the most snow. This guide to resorts beyond the friendly confines of Colorado will help you get it done.
Wyoming
Grand Targhee
Alta, Wyoming • grandtarghee.com
Distance from Denver: 10 hours
Why to go: Targhee may not be as well known as its mighty neighbor Jackson Hole, and it may not have the same steeps, but it does guarantee one important thing: powder, lots of it. The little resort on the other side of the Tetons gets hammered with more than 500 inches every year, making it one of the snowiest places to ride a lift in North America. Since it’s tucked in behind the Grand Teton—you need to get here from the Idaho side—the low-key resort sucks a big percentage of the good stuff from storms headed east. What’s more is that you won’t be assaulted by egos or tourists at Targhee—the crowd is a mix of homegrown locals and powder afficianados. Make it stop one in search of powder.
Where to find the goods: If you want more than the blessings inbounds, the resort’s snowcat operation will ferries you out for 14,000-20,000 verts of untracked lines on the other side of the ropes. A $413 Snowcat Adventure package includes three nights of lodging, one day of lift skiing and one day on the cat. Of course, you can also score the goods if you simply use your own engine and hike the famed (patrolled) terrain of Mary’s Nipple, too.
Insider knowledge: Start your day off on the Blackfoot double chair, then move across the mountain by finishing with a tour on Mary’s Nipple.
Where to stay: The resort offers some nice deals including a Stay and Ski free package that includes a lift ticket and lodging at the base strating at just $65 per night. No day at Targhee is complete if you don’t end up at The Trap bar.
Montana
Big Sky
Big Sky, Montana • bigskyresort.com
Distance from Denver: 10 hours, 30 minutes
Why to go: It’s one massive resort—strike that, actaully three including Moonlight Basin and Spanish Peaks—with no major population center nearby. That means that during a big dump you will be skiing fresh lines all day long instead of trying to hunt for little spots the crowds missed. It also helps that this monster of a resort claims 5,570 skiable acres and over 400 inches of white stuff each season. The highlight is the Lone Peak Tram, a giant beer can that shuttles skiers and riders to the summit of 11,166-foot Lone Peak. While acessing Moonlight—which sports some impressive steeps and high-alpine stashes of its own—used to require a more expensive ticket, Big Sky’s ownership acquired Moonlight and Spanish Peaks this fall, making claim to “the Biggest Skiing in America.” They have a point. No matter the stats, powder seekers will love that all the terrain offers ample chances to find stashes and blown-in snow even days after storms.
Where to find powder: Your best bets are high up on the mountain. The Big Sky Tram acesses terrain that feels more like the Alps than Montana—a smorgasbord of lines that ranges from the big, wide open turns down Liberty Bowl, a classic chute in the Big Couloir and varrying steeps with a short turnaround back to the Tram in the Patrol Gullies.
Insider snowledge: The Tram terrain is world class, but you should also head over to the Moonlight side to hit the steep chutes of The Headwaters on the north side of the mountain.
Where to stay: It’s not right at the bottom of the lifts, but Buck’s T-4 (buckst4.com) is on Highway 191 at the turn-off to the resort and the place combines upscale class and a donwhome Montana hunter vibe. Ask general manager David O’Connor for beta on the mountain and other activities in the Gallatin Canyon and Yellowstone National Park.
Bell Lake Yurt
pony, montana • belllakeyurt.com
Distance from Denver: 11 hours
Why to go: This yurt high up in Montana’s Tobacco Root Range was recently purchased by former Backcountry editor Drew Pogge. Mister Pogge does not mess around when it comes to seeking out untouched snow. The range represents the densest cluster of peaks over 10,000 feet in the state and the cirque of Bell Lake and Branham Peak where the yurt is situated serves up a whole bevy of lines—from safe low-angle tours in the trees to sketchy couloirs in the peaks. It’s an ideal base of operations. It would be a good idea to check the place out in spring as well, when the snow stabilizes and opens up big lines.
Where to find powder: The choice is up to you. If you are on your own, however, do be well-schooled in avalanche safety as well as the weather, terrain and peculiarities of the Tobacco Roots; carry the right gear; and exercise solid mountain judgement.
Insider knowledge: If your muscles are aching from all that ski touring, hit the undeveloped Upper Potosi Hot Springs on the road back down to Pony and near the Potosi Campground. It’s just a small pot that averages about 110 degrees with a fence to keep the cows out, but it’s worth a stop.
Where to stay: The yurt, of course. The cozy spot sleeps up to six and rates start at $265 per night. Pogge also offers fully guided and catered options (with locally grown organic produce and meats) as well as custom trips. The yurt will also be hosting three certified Avy 1 courses this season as well as an Intro to the Backcountry Camp (check the website for details).
British Columbia
Fernie
Fernie, British Columbia • skifernie.com
Distance from Denver: 16 hours, 30 minutes
Why to go: Because Fernie is, well, out of the way, making it one of the best little-known hills in existence. That’s a good thing for powder seekers and even better when you consider the resort averages 444 inches per year and the terrain here—which includes some sublime tree skiing and a chain of five bowls, including some puckering steeps—tends to hold onto that goodness. Plus, you won’t have to share that snow with too many tourists.
Where to find powder: The Currie Headwall is the place to lap big, steep lines here on a pow day.
Insider knowledge: A $90 CDN RCR Rockies Card gives you three days of skiing but is only on sale until December 26. It’s also good at Kicking Horse, Nakiska and Kimberley.
Where to stay: There are plenty of solid options at the base of the resort, but also try staying in town, which is in the midst of a revitalization project. Check here: tourismfernie.com/accommodations.
