Sometimes we are so used to skiing mega-resorts, with their parking garages, long lift lines, overpriced food, and sprawling base areas, that we forget what skiing used to be like, and some argue that skiing has lost its soul in these overly curated, overly concreted, high-speed focused conglomerated resorts.
Personally, I do still love skiing the big resorts and enjoy the amenities, but I hate paying for parking and walking forever through crowds of tourists only to wait in an absurd lift line, especially on a powder day. I’m old enough to remember that skiing wasn’t always like that, and it’s important to reconnect with the soul and roots of skiing every once in a while. My favorite ski areas here in Colorado are the ones with dirt parking lots, where you can pull right up to the lift, let your dog out while you put your boots on, and be on mountain in five minutes, not 45.
So when I got the call to come up to Montana and experience a handful of their lesser-known, smaller ski areas, I jumped at the chance. And I highly recommend the experience, easily accessible with just a short flight to Missoula from DIA.
Every August when summer feels like it’s ending I start to get really stoked for ski season. The promise of another winter is in the air. And that excitement made me want to share with you one of the coolest, most unique ski trips I’ve ever taken. Now mind you a ski trip through rural Montana is not for the faint of heart. Or for sissy skiers. This ain’t Keystone. And don’t bother asking for oat milk, or anything vegan for that matter. But do bring your powder skis, and an extra puffy layer or two.
Montana boasts 15 ski areas and resorts across the state, ranging from Big Sky (America’s “Biggest” Skiing) to hidden gems like the ones I explored on this adventure. Snowsports alone contributed more than $83 million to Montana’s economy in 2023, growing by 15% after the pandemic. But that’s just a fraction of the bigger picture as Montana’s outdoor recreation industry generated $3.4 billion in 2023, accounting for 4.6% of the state’s GDP (the third highest percentage of any state due in part to Montana’s incredible public lands).
Yes, Montana’s skiing heritage runs deep. Montana snow is reliable and dry, much like my home snow in Colorado, but it does vary around the state due to the sheer scope of elevation, latitude, and temperatures, but even when the snowpack is less than some neighboring western skiing meccas, the quality is almost always there. The state’s first ski areas emerged in the 1930s and 40s, built by communities that needed winter recreation options in places where snow blankets the ground for many months. These mountains grew organically from mining towns, logging and ranching communities, and railroad stops, places where winter wasn’t exactly escapable.
The route I’d be taking followed, in some ways, the path Lewis and Clark traced through this same country more than two centuries earlier—across the Bitterroot Mountains, treacherous snowy passes, and valleys where winter rules with an iron fist.
Missoula and Snowbowl: Gateway to Authentic Skiing
Snow Bowl (originally called the Missoula Snow Bowl when it opened in 1950) was born from a community effort to bring skiing to western Montana. Local ski enthusiasts, led by the Missoula Ski Club, carved the first runs on the north face of Mount Dean Stone in the Lolo National Forest. The area has changed hands several times over the decades, but its essential character remains: a no-frills mountain where locals go to ski, not to be seen.
Actually opened in 1962, this is a mom and pop, community ski hill at the base, but higher up holds serious steeps, gullies, cliffs, and run outs, with eye popping scenery overlooking the local mountainscape: 2,600 vertical feet across 950 acres, serviced by five lifts including vintage Riblet double chairs from the 1960s. The road to the top is unpaved and one-lane once you start climbing. It’s a local gem where generations of Missoula families have learned to ski. The base lodges resemble more of a western ghost town than a resort, yet the Last Run Inn is famed for its Bloody Mary’s and wood-fired pizzas.
Snowbowl lies just 30 minutes above booming downtown Missoula, and the contrast with Colorado’s Front Range couldn’t be starker. This accessibility also represents the ability to take spontaneous days based on snow conditions, remote work, school, and mood throughout the winter. Having revisited Missoula for the first time in 20 years the previous October for Outdoor Media Summit, I knew what to expect: a college-town vibe, authentic mix of western culture and core outdoor, easy access to fishing, biking, hiking, great food and welcoming locals, a progressive oasis in a predominantly red state. LOGE Missoula, our base for the night, represents a new approach to adventure lodging—repurposing existing motels rather than building new complexes. The concept speaks to sustainable adventure travel that prioritizes experience over amenities. Dinner at Zoo Thai is highly recommended.
Philipsburg and Disco: Where Mining Heritage Meets Modern Skiing
Discovery Ski Area opened in 1985 on the site of an old mining claim in the remarkable Pintler Mountains, taking its name from the mining term for finding a valuable body of ore. This was absolutely one of my favorite ski areas I’ve ever been to, for every reason: the steeps, the overall layout and terrain, the lack of crowds, beautiful forests, and amazing lunch and taps in the historic main lodge.
The area was developed by local businessman Tom Manning, who saw an opportunity to create a family-friendly ski experience in the Deer Lodge Valley, taking advantage of plentiful snowfall, long winters, and proximity to both Missoula and Butte. Discovery operates seven lifts serving terrain that ranges from gentle learning slopes to legitimate expert runs across 2,200 acres. Unlike many ski areas that have expanded aggressively over the decades, Discovery has maintained its modest scale, focusing on providing an authentic Montana ski experience but skiing way bigger than the stats would suggest.
The north-facing Limelight lift offers access to some of the steepest skiable terrain in Montana. The longest run stretches 2.5 miles. Southern Cross is a standout run on the front side, while Center Stage offers excitement on the back. The Bighorn Sheep Statue on Gold Bug provides a popular photo opportunity. Discovery’s base lodge serves paninis, soups, a surprising amount of healthy options, and what are considered world-class chocolate chip cookies, a stat I personally verified. The relationship between the ski area and locals feels organic.
The drive from Missoula to Discovery only takes an hour and a half, winding through Montana’s high-desert country to Philipsburg, with several local businesses worth visiting. The Broadway Hotel has been hosting travelers since 1890, and it made the perfect local respite for the night. Kaiser House Mercantile features Made in Montana products, wine, cheese, and gadgets. The Sweet Palace is known for epic candy and homemade licorice. Both Philipsburg Brewing Company (a “self-sustaining brewing company that enriches the lives of the community…”) and Bunkhouse Whiskey operate from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. right on the main drag (a quintessential turn- of-the-century old west town), with the brewery’s local favorites including Haybag Hefeweizen and Montana 1. Butte, Montana, is also only about an hour away from. Back to back fairly epic cold powder days (powder lasts longer in Montana) and a local guide allowed us to shred all aspects of the mountain solidly for two days.
Our second Disco day ended in Anaconda, a town founded by Marcus Daly, one of the “Copper Kings of Butte”. Daly financed construction of the Anaconda smelter, one of the tallest free-standing brick structures in the world, and an odd tourist attraction. Anaconda represents working communities where winter sports provide a welcome balance and outlet for folks. The Forge, our Anaconda lodging, opened in 2021, serves locals and visitors (hunters, skiers, highway workers, other tourists) without altering community character, just a short drive from Anaconda’s historic district that recently received a Commerce pilot community grant. We visited an impressive Smelter City Brewing and Pintler’s Portal Hostel, which serves as a gateway to the Continental Divide Trail.
Lost Trail and Jackson Hot Springs: Remote Montana at Its Finest
On to Lost Trail Ski Area!…One of Montana’s oldest continuously operating ski areas, opened in 1938 along the Montana-Idaho border. The mountain takes its name from Lost Trail Pass, the 7,014-foot crossing that nearly ended Lewis and Clark’s expedition in September 1805. The explorers spent days lost in early snow and dense timber before Shoshone guides led them to safety. We tried to do the same. This was another damn good powder day, which made it easy to fall in love with this remote ski area. Lost Trail operates as a border-state mountain, with runs that cross into Idaho.
Lost Trail offers 1,800 vertical feet across 800 acres, serviced by five lifts (three double chairs and two rope tows) accessing 69 trails ranging from gentle cruisers to expert challenges. The ski area was developed during the Great Depression by local enthusiasts who recognized opportunity in the area’s reliable snowfall and varied terrain. Like my home state of Colorado, the mountain receives 300 inches of snowfall annually, but only operates Thursday through Sunday plus holidays, partly because the drive requires crossing Lost Trail Pass—the same route Lewis and Clark navigated centuries earlier.
We met with Ski School Director Stewart (Stu) Hoyt and toured the entire mountain, including all the juicy cliffs and tree runs. The Lewis and Clark run from Chair 4 offers top-to-bottom skiing with off-piste options, and the classic Main Lodge serves delicious burgers, sandwiches and fries at reasonable prices.
That night, Jackson Hot Springs provided our final lodging. After a bit of a drive into what felt like the middle of rural Montana, the giant natural-fed hot spring pool and historic lodge (with the Super Bowl on) offered a unique and welcomed oasis. Another wild west downtown right out of a John Wayne movie greeted me at sunrise.
After four days exploring Montana’s lesser-known ski areas starting the moment I touched down, the contrast with mega-resort skiing was clear. These mountains preserve something essential that many places have traded away. Our final morning took us through Wisdom, Montana, a town so small it barely registers on most maps, but hosts the annual Big Hole Valley Skijoring competition each February. The 20-minute drive from Jackson Hot Springs provided our breakfast stop before the two and a half hour drive back to Missoula. I instantly regretted asking for oat milk at Fetty’s, a local diner, but it all worked out Ok. Montana’s lesser-known ski areas demonstrate that bigger isn’t necessarily better, and the people I met seemed to cherish skiing’s essential values, being outside in nature, having fun, and community.
A stop at Tagliare in Missoula offered world-class sandwiches before our return to the airport for an easy 2:35 p.m. flight home. Landing at DIA felt like returning from a different era of skiing, one that still exists if you know where to look.
Planning Your Montana Ski Adventure
Multiple airlines offer direct flights from Denver to Missoula (I like the United flights), with flight times averaging under two hours. From Missoula, ski areas are accessible by rental car, with drive times ranging from 30 minutes to two hours. Logistics allow for spontaneous decisions—no advance lift ticket reservations required, minimal parking hassles, and lift lines rarely exceeding 20 minutes even on powder days.
Accommodation options range from historic hotels like the Broadway in Philipsburg to modern properties like The Forge in Anaconda, without resort premiums, as long as expectations are aligned. For those seeking skiing that builds character rather than selfies, Montana’s smaller ski areas offer something that can’t be replicated: the chance to experience the sport as it used to be. Is it better? I’ll let you judge for yourself.
(photos courtesy of the author and the Montana Department of Commerce, visitmt.com)
—Definitely Wild is a column by EO Contributing Editor Aaron Bible. He has been writing for Elevation Outdoors and Blue Ridge Outdoors, among other outdoor publications, for more than two decades, covering cycling, skiing, gear, adventure travel and mountain life. The opinions expressed here are his own. Follow him on Instagram at @DefinitelyWild.
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Fly Fishing with Eleven Experiences
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