May 4, 2011: 21:00hrs (Nepal Time) Extra hydration please!
Today was an emotional day at camp and some extra hydration was definitely needed. It started with Tim holding Desh’s hand to say good-bye. The doctors said they almost lost him twice in the night when his BP nearly disappeared. They said he was in such intense pain that prescribed morphine was likely affecting his BP to drop off.
Thankfully the helicopter made it in at 07:30hrs today. It’s thought he would not have survived if it didn’t. Tim was hoping Desh’s brother would be able to go with him but the pilot kept firmly holding up one finger insisting the weather and wind was too much for two passengers. Desh was most upset because he was abandoning his responsibility in the kitchen and the financial responsibility to bring home an income to his family this year. Tim said he wiped the tear from Desh’s cheek and his and assured him that he would not fail in either of his concerns.
Desh was met at the airport by an ambulance and Rojan was there to help do the paperwork at the hospital. They had to give him a blood transfusion and discovered that he had two holes in his stomach from the ulcers. What a trooper to endure such pain all for the sake of his loyalties.
The other tear jerks started when Tim began to give his safety talk. The team has been packing all day to go up on the mountain again tomorrow. It’s that time in the climb when he feels the need to help put their quest into perspective on why coming back home alive is mandatory. His tools to help hit home are his visual aids that hang on the walls of the dining tent throughout the expedition. Anyone that has been to Peak Freaks camp knows what these are. Lets just say they are very graphic photos of what happens if a climber starts to lose focus on what’s important and the consequences.
When he started to discuss what’s most important he said the room got a bit wet. Yup, he used all of you at home to resonate that message. He reminded everyone that family and friends are also in this journey with them. They have given their trust in you and your good judgement, their support and encouragement and that they have a responsibility to you to come home unscathed and alive. He also said they have the same responsibility to their guides, climbing partners and Sherpas and to Peak Freaks flawless safety record for never losing anyone to the mountains. He said he really didn’t need to be so harsh as they are a smart bunch but he still wants them to have memory of these words being spoken should things start to not feel right.
The good stuff is that prior to his talk with everyone tonight you will be happy to know that they were all pumped and ready to climb tomorrow as per the plan mentioned yesterday. Tim says camp was buzzing with whistling, jokes, singing and gearing up to get back on those crampons. The weather is very stable right now up high for quite a stint.
The route: Is fixed to the south col and our camp at C4 is also ready. The fixing to the summit is bumped back for a couple of days. Now expected to be completed by May 8.
Everest Death:This news is now out so I will provide the link of the release made by the family. Our sherpas have been working very hard up high and that is a reason you haven’t heard much about them lately. They were involved in the recovery mission. Our thoughts and prayers go out the Rich Hitch’s family. Good work team!
Muntain Climber Rich Hitch dies on Everest. Rich was “not” a member of Peak Freaks.
