Drink It Up: The view of Elbert and Massive that is.

Wining, fine dining, yurts and big mountain views at the Tennessee Pass Cookhouse.

Anyone who’s spent time in Colorado’s backcountry huts and yurts knows that the daily sustenance generally arrives in the form of hearty, comfort food schlepped by pack. One very notable exception however is the Tennessee Pass Cookhouse. While not an overnight destination (yet), the rustic 32-foot diameter yurt is one of the highest eateries on the continent. For 14 seasons, this trailside restaurant at 10,760-feet has been steadily dishing up western-inspired haute cuisine in a unique sylvan setting.

The quaint Tennessee Pass Cookhouse differs from the Rockies’ numerous gondola-served, high-altitude eateries perched at the top of resorts in that it was envisioned to be accessed by foot. Winter and summer, the yurt is readily reached via a moderately inclined one-mile, self-propelled tromp—skis and snowshoes provided gratis when necessary.

“Back in 1994, we noticed a picnic table along the Cooper Loop cross-country ski trail that always drew a lunchtime crowd. It was a sheltered and scenic spot, just a natural for a trailside respite,” explains owner Ty Hall. “My wife and I realized this would be a great spot for a more permanent structure to serve food and drink to skiers and others visiting the area, including Vail.”

Roxanne hefts the starters.

Hall and his Leadville-native wife Roxanne (both competitive skiers)  already owned and operated the nearby Ski Cooper Nordic Center. After adding partner Cannon Shockley to the team, the trio built the yurt, and had it warm and ready for backcountry business within a year. Today, almost all of the serious cooking is handled onsite by head chef Andrew Elwinger in the newly attached wooden kitchen.

I made my first trip to the cookhouse this September. The half-hour traverse to the yurt begins promptly at 5:30 p.m. at the Tennessee Pass Nordic Center base lodge, itself a mere stone’s throw away from the paved summit of historic Tennessee Pass. The entirety of the surrounding mountains and valleys, including the Ski Cooper downhill resort and the flat grassy park of Camp Hale below to the north, served as the haunt and headquarters of the storied 10th Mountain Division during World War II. I’ve spent much time in the area and I always find it hard not think of those men—and their cantankerous Arkansas military mules—and to feel their presence whenever I’m exploring the area.

The Deck

At the end of the pleasant hike, my companion Liz and I found the cozy yurt tucked tightly against a copse of alpine fir and spruce trees on the edge of a green meadow. To the south and west, far beyond the deck and set against the setting sun, three of Colorado’s highest and “holiest” peaks—including Mt. Elbert (14,431’), Mt. Massive (14,421’), and The Mount of the Holy Cross (14.005’)—slowly turned a shadowy blue. After the walk—and inspired by the crisp mountain air—we were more than ready to eat. First up was an impressive appetizer plate laden with homemade wild boar and cherry sausage, bacon-wrapped scallops, fresh fruit, brie, apples and croissant—all chased with a fine glass of pinot noir.

The yurt

As the light waned, we moved inside the little sanctuary. Set around the circular structure we found tables and settings for 40 guests and a vintage “cannon” stove for wintertime warmth in the corner. (Ty found the stove, a relic of the 10th days,  in an antique store on south Broadway in Denver.) After a mixed green salad, dappled with butternut squash, came the main course. Mine was a savory, juicy rack of lamb. Liz chose the grilled elk tenderloin with sage, blueberry and port wine sauce. Mashed Yukon Gold potatoes and French cut green beans accompanied both. Covetously—and prematurely—I assumed little Liz surely couldn’t handle that ample serving of elk all by her lonesome. But alas, before I knew it, she had cleaned her plate.

With my lamb vanquished and my less-than-honorable plan for “sharing” Liz’s elk dashed we moved on to the evening’s culinary dénouement, a vanilla raspberry cheesecake served with coffee and mint tea. By 9:30 the evening’s gaggle of diners began the descent back to the trailhead. As we waddled homeward, the night illuminated by the headlamps dispensed to each guest by our hosts, I couldn’t help but think that Liz and I really had found, and enjoyed, not only another Colorado highcountry gem, but also a meal to match the mountains.

Brian Litz is the author of Colorado Hut to Hut.

DETAILS: Reservations are required. There is one seating each night. The $75.00 fee includes everything except drinks, tax and tip. Currently, the owners are in the application phase to add several overnight yurts nearby. Stay tuned.
CONTACT INFO: 719-486-8114; Tennesseepass.com