May 12: 2011: 09:00hrs (Nepal Time) What’s for dinner at 26,000ft (8000m)

I just talked to Tim on Skype, you can tell he is super stoked about the summit push for the team as he was talking incredibly fast. It was an impossible conversation because of the slight delay and all the chatter in the background with Sherpa radios going off this morning all at the same time and me wanting to settle some communication issues. Things like, ” Tell Tashi to check his spot and send a signal and send lots of them to test drive the new Everest3D Reality Maps program so we can take all of you flying with the team”.

Then we discussed launch times for the summit push. Tim said 21:00hrs tonight Nepal Time and I said 18:00hrs Nepal Time and the guest in the tent, a well known expedition leader started to laugh…. Whaat…?  

Apparently there were a few summit pushes last night and there were turn backs because of wind, that’s all I know, not who or anything like that and I don’t report on other teams.

So there ya have it… they will be diving into their MRE boil in the bag meals today loading up on fuel. Menu items will include things like:  Meatballs w/Marinara, Maple Sausages, Chicken Fajita, Pot Roast w/Vegetables, Buffalo Chicken and so on. We also have boil in the bag curries and lentils for those who prefer spicy foods. Our high altitude boil in the bags and fish supplements and bars are the only thing we import from home. The rest we buy local as part of our green policy.

I will be going to bed now and back with you here in the morning PST when they will begin their ascent to top. The wine is being chilled.  ……. stay tuned.. Becky

Photo: South Col

May 11: 2011: 20:00hrs (Nepal Time) All is good…Camp 4 – 26000ft (8000m)

Our team arrived at the South Col in good time and are all now at camp resting and sipping on oxygen.  They are going to stay here tonight and all day tomorrow while on oxygen giving them an extra boost rather than heading up tonight. The weather is still holding so this is the optimal approach allowing their bodies more time to get energized for the big push late on the 12th which should have them on the summit the morning of the 13th.

Over and out …. Tim

May 9, 2011: 21:00hrs (Nepal Time) Bucket list complete!.

Sadly Mark (Mango) Mangles came down from C2 today calling it the end of his climb. Mango has been suffering. He had dengue fever several years back and the last time he had an attack from it was 5 years ago and he is well aware of the symptoms. He thinks the heat he has endured and dehydration has brought on another attack. He was experiencing extreme loss of energy, fever, chills and body aches. He’s been there before and knows fine well that with the stress his body is undergoing right now, it would be foolish to try to attempt the summit. So sad… he so much deserved his moment to stand on top. Mango has been an amazing asset to the team. So whether he has summit credit to his name or not he has succeeded with flying colours and has been outstanding team mate. His contribution in keeping everything running in the communication department and keeping the humour level high was very much appreciated throughout this expedition. He will rejoice when they stand on top and they will be grateful to him for his wisdom.

Bucket List Complete:

When Mango was on his way down today between C1 and base camp he was telling Tim he came across a very old Nepalese climber being pulled by ropes through the icefall towards C1. First thought – how bazaar (%&$?).  Just as he was back at camp telling Tim when a call came in from a buzz of Sherpa relays saying that the man had just died before C1. Tim said that both he and Mango stopped in the middle of their conversation in shock looking at each other. What the heck?

The oldest climber entered in the Guiness Records was Min Bahadur, Nepalese climber at the age of 76 in 2009. This man, Shailendra Kumar Upadhyaya was age 82. I understand his family have been informed at the time I got the news.  We offer our congratulations on his willingness to go for the summit of his country/world- trying to break the record and at the same time offer our condolences. Our thoughts and prayers are with his family during this time of mourning.

Member update:

Our team is doing awesome. They are gearing up for tomorrow. They will be pulling out of camp at 06:30 not the time I previously mentioned. Tim said it will be too difficult to keep their extremities warm before the sun comes up and they don’t want to burn batteries reserved for their electric foot warmers. Instead save those for the summit night. Makes sense.

Martijn is on his way down. Something going on with him. He was having some gastro issues so he needs to retreat. More on him later. Everyone else is 100% and excited for the push. They are making bets they will be on a plane home out of Kathmandu on the 20th. Lets see how close they are. There are many variables to consider.

I asked Tim for an individual update and he said he couldn’t really give one as they are all quite simply just doing awesome. So there you have it.

Our official summit push starts tomorrow. First step being their night at Camp 3, move up to Camp 4 the next day, rest all day and leave for the summit in the night of the 11th topping out on the morning of the 12th.  Stay tune!   Becky

First jointly created solution is photorealistic 3D map of Mt. Everest, helping current climbing team reach the summit while enabling spectators to experience it more vividly than ever before.

Longmont, CO – May 09, 2011 – DigitalGlobe, (NYSE: DGI), a leading global provider of high-resolution earth imagery solutions, today announced a cooperation with German Aerospace Center (DLR) and the German company 3D Reality Maps to provide a new range of high quality three dimensional data products.

3D RealityMaps will use the data, captured on an ongoing basis by DigitalGlobe’s fleet of earth imaging satellites and processed to three dimensional data by DLR, to create high-definition 3D maps of large-scale natural landmarks and other major tourist destinations worldwide. The maps are accessed and navigated using the company’s intuitive and easy-to-use 3D navigation software, available for free download at its website.

“This is a perfect example of the new and innovative ways our customers are using DigitalGlobe imaging and insight to solve real-world challenges, deliver value to their customers, and fuel growth,” said John Oechsle, executive vice president of strategy and product at DigitalGlobe.  “Our relationship with DLR and 3D RealityMaps shows that no matter how big the goal, DigitalGlobe can help you reach it.”

As a first demonstration of their leading-edge combined capabilities, the joint group created one of the most detailed and accurate 3D maps of Mt. Everest and the surrounding Himalayan mountain region ever achieved. To experience it, visit the 3D Everest website at www.everest3D.de.

It is now being used by support personnel to track a 12-climber expedition, sponsored by climbing enthusiast and expedition management company Peak Freaks. The climbers set out to summit Mt. Everest in late March. The climbers are expected to reach the top of the world’s tallest mountain, standing at 8,848 meters or 29,000 feet above sea level, sometime in the next 10 to 15 days. For more on Peak Freaks, visit www.peakfreaks.com.

“Most current 3D models of Mount Everest are created at a lower resolution, which makes rock faces blurred and coloring unnatural,” explained 3D Reality Maps CEO Dr. Florian Siegert. “With a ground resolution of the 3D data of 150 cm, our application is about 400 times better than that available in most 3D views of the mountain. . This is truly a breakthrough in satellite imagery-based 3D modeling and real time 3D rendering.”

To achieve this level of accuracy, DLR experts used a new methodology for 3D stereo (aerial) image processing, which was originally developed for international space program ‘Mars Express’. It was further refined at the DLR Center for Robotics and Mechatronics RMC in Oberpfaffenhofen and Berlin, and can now be applied to high resolution satellite images.

The extreme level of detail achieved in 3D Everest gives crews supporting the climb capabilities never before possible.  Personnel, camped miles away, can now pinpoint the climbers’ location on the virtual version of the mountain and monitor their progress in real-time. For mountaineering enthusiasts, media partner Elevation Outdoors will be posting real-time content from the climbers’ journey on their landing page “Climbing Everest.” To learn more visit http://www.elevationoutdoors.com/category/climbing-everest/.

3D RealityMaps’ customers include many of the largest ski areas and tourism destinations in Europe.  Using the company’s software, guests can explore, book and monitor their outdoor activities at the resort using a detailed 3D map of the region.

“Our goal with 3D Everest was to gives people around the world a new, more immersive way to experience the climb from the comfort of their home or office,” added Siegert. “In many ways it demonstrates how our services benefit our customers.  We use this same technology to provide new, more exciting ways to show what our customers’ destination have to offer guests before the trip, and help them better manage their activities once they arrive.”

About DigitalGlobe

DigitalGlobe is a leading global provider of commercial high-resolution earth imagery products and services. Sourced from our own advanced satellite constellation, our imagery solutions support a wide variety of uses within defense and intelligence, civil agencies, mapping and analysis, environmental monitoring, oil and gas exploration, infrastructure management, Internet portals and navigation technology. With our collection sources and comprehensive ImageLibrary (containing more than one billion square kilometers of earth imagery and imagery products) we offer a range of on- and off-line products and services designed to enable customers to easily access and integrate our imagery into their business operations and applications. For more information, visit http://www.digitalglobe.com.

About German Aerospace Center (DLR)

DLR is Germany’s national research center for aeronautics and space. Its extensive research and development work in aeronautics, space, transportation and energy is integrated into national and international cooperative ventures. As Germany’s Space Agency, the German federal government has given DLR responsibility for the forward planning and implementation of the German space program, as well as international representation of Germany’s interests.

Aeronautics and space make substantial contributions to the way we live today. Key industries, including materials technology, medicine and software engineering, all profit from innovations made by DLR in the fields of aeronautics and space. For more information, visit www.dlr.de

About 3D Reality Maps

3D Reality Maps is a Germany-based firm that produces high resolution, interactive 3D landscape and city models for a wide range of applications such as tourism, urban planning, natural hazards and homeland security using high resolution digital aerial and satellite imagery. Its 3D maps for ski resorts and other tourism destinations power a more photorealistic experience, combining traditional point of interest information with high resolution terrain models in all seasons. 3D Reality Maps’ current customers include some of Europe’s largest ski resorts, such as Dolomiti Superski in Italy or the Stubai glacier in Austria.

May 6, 2011: 21:00hrs (Nepal Time) Still a beauty up there…

A few days back wind was predicted up high for tonight and blowing till early on the 8th. The team plans to climb to C3 tomorrow, hang out and retreat to C2. If the wind doesn’t kick them too hard. If it does, no worries, go the next day when it is suppose to back off again. Time is on our side! Tim seems to think everyone can handle it.

Everyone had a great day and are all sleeping peacefully at C2.

We got word that Desh is stable and in good hands in Kathmandu hospital. He has to undergo surgery to deal with the two ulcer holes in his stomach. Tim said it was a blessing that his condition came to a head while here. Otherwise he would have been down in his home village where he lives below Lukla with no help to get him out to a hospital. The mountains have brought considerable fortune to the people of the Himalayas. It’s lure for climbing has brought aid projects, income, education, transportation, health and health care. Never mind the vibrant economy that spins off the industry in Kathmandu. It’s a gear shop mecca with abundant trekking companies, hotels, restaurant and the textile industries. The Khumbu climbing scene alone generates 1.2 million a year in peak fee royalties never mind the hundreds employed transporting goods to the tea houses, purchasing power to by animals for carrying and helping till the ground for food. It’s a great feeling to see that such a healthy sport can give back so much to a country and to know that we are part of it. All for the love of mountains, how cool is that?

That’s all for now… back at ya tomorrow…. Becky

May 6, 2011: 10:00hrs (Nepal Time) Stellar weather!!! as far as I can see.

We are in good form up on the mountain. All camps are stocked. Our Sherpa crew is resting at EBC from all their hard work. The members team is having a great sleep in at Camp 2 this beautiful morning. It’s a day off today with nothing to do but eat, drink and be merry.

Unfortunately being merry does not include everyone. Matt Wozniak has been battling affects from altitude, it happens. You just never know who it might happen to or when. He opted to rest at EBC when the team retreated to Pheriche this past week to work on getting his energy up. During that time there was a lot of analyzing on what exactly was going on with his body chemistry. Together Tim and Angel with their 50+ collective years of high altitude experience couldn’t seem to correct or find a solution to his rapid muscle degradation. The fighter he is, he wanted to at least try to push yesterday with the team but it was soon evident he had to retreat for safety reasons. Angel brought him back down to camp.

Good effort Matt…. those who know him know that summiting Everest is certainly within his reach. He will be heading out down the valley tomorrow with great memories of this place, the journey and new friends for a lifetime.

The team will certainly miss having him around physically but at the same time they know his support in a spiritual sense will be with the them. Matt, you rock!

May 5, 2011:21:00hrs (Nepal Time) SUMMITS and record speed rope fixing!!! C2 to Summit and back to C2.

and……. we are in position and to plan

Tim says, “Get this, the team of 6 fixing Sherpas left Camp 2 this morning, climbed to the south col, grabbed rope and oxygen and fixed the rope to the summit, climbed back down and were to stay at the col but they felt so good they climbed all the way back down and are now at time of this post back in Camp 2.  INCREDIBLE!!!!!    The route from the col is also in amazing condition. In previous season they typically have to negotiate rock and ice. This year it is compressed snow making travel the best ever…”

Awesome work team!

Our members are at Camp 2 and pretty darn proud of themselves. Roger had made a choice before leaving EBC that he preferred to stay one night at Camp 1 and will join them tomorrow at C2.

Tomorrow is a rest day for everyone at C2 then they are going to climb to Camp 3, hang out for day and then come back down to Camp 2 to sleep.

Stay tuned…. Becky

May 4, 2011: 21:00hrs (Nepal Time) Extra hydration please!

Today was an emotional day at camp and some extra hydration was definitely needed.  It started with Tim holding Desh’s hand to say good-bye. The doctors said they almost lost him twice in the night when his BP nearly disappeared. They said he was in such intense pain that prescribed morphine was likely affecting his BP to drop off.

Thankfully the helicopter made it in at 07:30hrs today. It’s thought he would not have survived if it didn’t. Tim was hoping Desh’s brother would be able to go with him but the pilot kept firmly holding up one finger insisting the weather and wind was too much for two passengers. Desh was most upset because he was abandoning his responsibility in the kitchen and the financial responsibility to bring home an income to his family this year. Tim said he wiped the tear from Desh’s cheek and his and assured him that he would not fail in either of his concerns.

Desh was met at the airport by an ambulance and Rojan was there to help do the paperwork at the hospital. They had to give him a blood transfusion and discovered that he had two holes in his stomach from the ulcers. What a trooper to endure such pain all for the sake of his loyalties.

The other tear jerks started when Tim began to give his safety talk. The team has been packing all day to go up on the mountain again tomorrow. It’s that time in the climb when he feels the need to help put their quest into perspective on why coming back home alive is mandatory. His tools to help hit home are his visual aids that hang on the walls of the dining tent throughout the expedition.  Anyone that has been to Peak Freaks camp knows what these are. Lets just say they are very graphic photos of what happens if a climber starts to lose focus on what’s important and the consequences.

When he started to discuss what’s most important he said the room got a bit wet. Yup, he used all of you at home to resonate that message. He reminded everyone that family and friends are also in this journey with them. They have given their trust in you and your good judgement, their support and encouragement and that they have a responsibility to you to come home unscathed and alive. He also said they have the same responsibility to their guides, climbing partners and Sherpas and to Peak Freaks flawless safety record for never losing anyone to the mountains.  He said he really didn’t need to be so harsh as they are a smart bunch but he still wants them to have memory of these words being spoken should things start to not feel right.

The good stuff is that prior to his talk with everyone tonight you will be happy to know that  they were all pumped and ready to climb tomorrow as per the plan mentioned yesterday. Tim says camp was buzzing with whistling, jokes, singing and gearing up to get back on those crampons.  The weather is very stable right now up high for quite a stint.

The route: Is fixed to the south col and our camp at C4 is also ready. The fixing to the summit is bumped back for a couple of days. Now expected to be completed by May 8.

Everest Death:This news is now out so I will provide the link of the release made by the family. Our sherpas have been working very hard up high and that is a reason you haven’t heard much about them lately. They were involved in the recovery mission. Our thoughts and prayers go out the Rich Hitch’s family. Good work team!

Muntain Climber Rich Hitch dies on Everest. Rich was “not” a member of Peak Freaks.

May 3, 2011: 21:00hrs (Nepal Time) Busy…..

Busy day for an expedition leader. Who says there’s nothing to do at base camp?

Tim’s day was spent preparing the team for their next move. Another oxygen mask rehearsal and discussions on weather and summit options…. Running oxygen to the HRA till their shipment comes in…. A few hours with Russell  Brice discussing the old days they shared in the early 90′s on Everest and how the joint effort budget is working out…. Discussing how much more work is needed to get more cooperation from teams who arrive with the intent to surf off the backs of other expeditions, or lack of knowledge on the new communities effort to share expenses and manpower in this regard….

He was also running around camps in an effort to find teams that might have Sherpas going up to take some batteries to Willie for the bolt gun. Our Sherpas are all up on the mountain right now or coming down. He was happy to find that our Japanese neighbours had someone going up so that worked out.

There was a disturbing part in Tim’s day today. That was when he learned that our long-time cook assistant Desh-kumar Sherpa was taken down to the HRA clinic due to extreme abdominal pain. He has been keeping this secret because he was afraid. This happens often with Sherpa people who have never been anywhere outside of their Himalayan heaven. They are afraid to go to clinics for help. They have seen people go in and come out dead and this has a huge impact on them. They certainly still need more education in this regard. Surprisingly still today they are fearful of child birth in remote regions. The need for prenatal education is very much needed in Nepal.

The Khumbu is getting much better but still like in Desh’s case- he has never been to a city before. He has never seen the bright lights, the movement of a car or a hospital. He has only ever seen such things on DVD’s that make their way up the valley and stories from his families and friends that have had that opportunity.

Fear has resulted in a critical situation for Desh. Tonight he is at the HRA clinic and it’s thought that he has an ulcer that he has had for sometime and needs to go to Kathmandu hospital. He is on IV and morphine, under the care of Dr. Dawa and Dr. Hasish, the two Nepalese “first time” doctors new to the EverestER this year. Tim tried to organize a helicopter evacuation today but the weather in Kathmandu wouldn’t allow for it. They will try again tomorrow. Desh’s brother who also works on our expedition will go with Desh as he knows Kathmandu and will be able to walk him through the steps of getting into the ambulance and admit him into  the hospital in an attempt to help relieve his anxiety throughout this ordeal.

He is seriously dehydrated because we just learned that it has been too painful for him to eat or drink but no one knew. He’s in good hands now and hopefully his pain will subside soon. We pray for clear skies tomorrow enabling a helicopter to get in. Tim said he couldn’t help himself from pacing outside the clinic yesterday like an expecting father would feeling helpless. He will back over there first light to see how Desh’s night went.

Climbing:   Camp 3 push is in the works in the next day or two. It will be the typical progression, C1 or C2 depending on the individual. Then rest at C2 for 1 or two days, again an individual preference. Climb to C3 and retreat to C2. Or, some may decide to go back up and sleep. We offer a great deal of flexibility to our climbers when the weather and health of everyone looks good. Our high climbing Sherpa guide ratio allows for this. No one is set to a specific schedule as we prefer to offer a more of pure climbing experience if all our rescue implements are in place but not before that.

Member updates: BG is getting over a bit of a cold, much improved today. Roger’s cough is gone, everyone else is doing fabulous and again Tim shared with me his observations on what a strong team we have this year. He said they are tough bunch, they tromped back into base camp from Pheriche in epic time and none of them felt any fatigue as a result by days end.

Weather: Is is looking really good in the long-run. This has all our Freaks in the Peaks getting a tid bit excited… I had a conversation with Tim about how odd it is that there isn’t a lingering jet-stream this year.  It has other long time Everest players befuddled too….. Oh well, we’ll take it……. Stay tuned!

Photo: Desh-kumar Sherpa

May 2, 2011: 21:00hrs (Nepal Time) – Home coming

Our team is making their way back to camp. Jan in Namche, Mango in Pheriche, Laura, Martijn, Kathy, Georgina, Pam, BG, Kevin, Angel and Javier in Gorak Shep. Nelson, Matt and Mark, Roger in base camp. Everyone should be home at EBC in the next couple of days from their time away down in the valley.

Then everyone will rest at EBC including our Sherpas who have been working very hard up on the mountain. They just dropped oxygen, stoves and tents at the south col. Camp will be buzzing with activity once again. Tim and the others who stayed at camp look forward to everyone’s return.

After the team has rested they will be moving up for their Camp 3 rotation. The weather is accommodating and with a warming trend- so we are on.  Stay tuned!

Photo: Tim- “come on home team…. look’in good”.